If you want to build your own, I have a set of DIY Riser shelving plans and a list of parts, including everything I’ve used:
First I began to build the main body of the ascending shelf. It consists of a piece of plywood with a 2sub4 attached to the back. On this 2,4 I attached a couple of hooks. Then I attached the garage door rollers to all four corners. These roles are really versatile and have played a key role in the proper functioning of this project.
For a track, I actually wanted to buy something off the shelf and ended up looking at the garage door rails. They were inexpensive, but like everything else, their price skyrocketed. Instead, I decided to build my own wooden tracks. I took the hardest wood I had in my shop, and it was quite long, it was oak, and I settled it in L. for tracks, you definitely want something hard for long-term durability. I attached it to the wall, held it in place, and threw a single brad nail. This will keep it long enough for me to put a level in it and seal it. I only had a 4-foot level in my shop, so I pulled myself down, then up, and put on a pair of braces while straightening it. Once it looked good, I came back with screws. I pre-drilled the holes to make sure the Oak doesn’t crack. Then I repeated the process offering the correct track in the same way as the Left.
Now that the rails are in place, I moved up and fixed the pulleys. This will be what the cable gets up before going right to the hoist. I used lags to get into my wall here. So even though it’s not necessary, I’ve added a general ledger matrix…just to be sure. Much of the force applied to these pulleys will be vertical, as it will descend and pull the ascending shelf upward. To deal directly with this force, I came across screws in the ledger. This is added to the lags that have entered the wall.
To continue, the next step is to return to the shelf and attach some components. The first is a thimble, which hangs from the anchor point of the 2irub4. This is used so that the wire rope has a track in which it can be placed and thus can be wound on itself. To fix it, I used the so-called “wired cable clamps”, which are tightened at both input and output voltages. I used dap’s tank threading cabinet all over the project hardware that had a nut on it. I applied it to the threads before adding nuts. It is a quick-drying coating that creates an airtight seal that absorbs shock and vibration and prevents fasteners from unintentionally retracting. I really love it because the treated fasteners remain fully adjustable, removable and reusable if I have to replace them in the future. I use it on anything that has vibrations.
Before I forgot, another thing I did was expand the trailer so that it was near my shelf instead of near my hoist. Now, when my shelf is lifted, when I need access to my Hardware Store, I can go to the wall and lower it. So I can hold it here or lift it to store at the top of my wall and keep the hardware rack free.